Manufacture of molded-counter turned shoes



Oct. 16, 1923. a

H., L YEATON MANUFAICTURE 0F MOLDED COUNTER TURNED SHOES Original Filed June' 28 /NVENTUR.

Patented Oct. 16, 1923. l

UNlTED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY L. YEA'ron, or nos'ron, MAssAoHUsET'rs, .essienon ro unirnn snon MA- CHINERY CORPORATION, or PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION ornnw JERSEY.

MANUFACTURE OF MOLDED-COUNTER TURNED SHOES.

Application filed June 28, 1920, Seria1 lilo. 39 2,2157. Renewed January 27,1322. Serial No. 532,262.

To (11 Z w home 2 may 00 1mm.-

Be it known that I, HARRY L. YEA'ro a citizen of theUnited States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State com 32111 in drawin s. is a s ecification.

like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

:This invention relates to the manufacture of turned shoes and is herein described in connection. with the manufacture of :1 turned shoe having a molded counter.

in the manufacture of such shoes it is desirable that the counter, particularly the forward pmrtioiis of its wings, be reinforced in some way to prevent the wings from spreading and the counter thereby losing the proper shape in the completed shoe, and hitherto various sorts of shape-retaining" or reinforcingmembers have been employed,

the common practice being to attach the reinforcing member to the inturned flange of the counter and then to attach the/counter to the sole, the principal diflieulty encountered in carrying out the procedure being to locate the reinforced counter accurately upon the sole prior to the attaching operation. v

According to the present invention a por tion of a component part of the shoe used \as a reinforcing or' shape-retaining member for the counter, such use serying not cnly to do away with the necessity for the OX- tra reinforcing member hitherto commonly employed but .in some cases to facilitate the proper locating of the counter. Convenient lythe heel end of the sole maybe split by a cut parallel to the surface of the soleto produce a fiap, and the inturned flange ,of

the molded counter maybe inserted in the slit beneath the flap and fastened to the flap by any suitable means (such as nails.

With [such a procedure the flap, which is part of the sole. acts as a reinforcing member and its curved edge serves to locate the counter accurately in place. 1

Referring now to the accompanyingdrawings, n s

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the heel end of a sole which has been slit preparatory to Iilncilirporating it: in a shoe having a Louis ee m Fig. 2 is a perspective ofthe shoe as it appears on the first last, afterthe sewing,

operation hasbeen completed and the counter placed in position;

Fig. 3 is a perspective of the heel end the shoe after the second last has been inof the shoe after it has been. turned right sertedand the heel portion of the upper Q lasted over the edge of the counter;

Fig. 5 is afperspective of the heel and of I the shoe after the heel seat has been fitted, a Louis heel being shown in dotted lines;

Fig. 6is aperspective of the heel end of a sole prepared for incorporation in a shoe having a Cuban'heel, the heel being shown in dottedlines;

Fig. 7 is' a perspective of the heel end of a sole prepared forincorporation in a shoe having a leather heel, the heel being shown in dotted lines, and

Fig. 8 is a perspective showing more par ticularly the construction of the forward ends of the inturned flange of the molded counter and their relation to the sole.

Referring first more particularly to Figs. 1 to 5, with occasional reference to F 8,.the manufacture of a shoe having a Louis heel will be described.

In Fig. 1, the heel end of a turn sole 9 is shown, the heel end being slit at two localities to form three flaps, a counter-reinforcing flap 11 adjacent the top or flesh side of the sole, a-heel-seat flap 13 lying below it,

and a heel-breast flap 15 adjacent the bottom or tread face of the sole. The sole slit in this manner, together with an assembled upper, which in the illustrated shoe comprlses an upper proper 17 and a lining 19, are placed wrong side out upon the first last 21, the lining belng slit as shown at about the heel breast line and its rear portion turned back out of the way. The upper and lining are then sewed as usual to the sole forwardly of a line in the vicinity of the heel breast line. The inturned flange of a molded counter 23 is then inserted in the slit beneath the reinforcing flap 11 and fastened to the flap in the vicinity of'the heel breast line in any suitable manner.

the counter lengthwise intoplace will accomplish this result. i

It will be understood,that the heel end of -sole which is designed for use with a wooden heel has approximately the outline of the insole pattern and that, consequently, when the counter has been fastened in position in the manner describedabove it is locatedwith extreme accuracy. It should be noted, too, that the reinforcing flap 11 takes the place of the reinforcing or shape-retainin member now commonly used, one purpo se of which is to prevent the wings of the counter from spreading in the completed shoe.

It is desirable in a turned shoe that the wings of thecounter extend well forward but it is impractical to extend the slit by which the flap L1 is formed. much if any beyond the heel breast line. In case it is desired to use a counter of such length that it will extend well forward, the forward ends of its inturned flange may be slitted transversely as shown at 27 and the extreme forward ends of the flange caused to overlie the sole as shown.

After the stage in the manufacture indicated in Fig. 2 has been reached, the heel end of the shoe at that time being open, the first last 21 is pulled and the shoe turned right side out. During this turning the heel portion of the lining is carried up over the top and down inside the counter, its lower margin being turned inwardly and laid down upon the inside of the sole, that is upon the top of the flap 11. A shank stiffener 29 which is coated on its under side with glue or similar material is then placed in the shoe and fastened by one or more tacks, the shoe then being in the condition shown in Fig. 3. It will be noted that the shank stiffener lies on top. of the forward ends of the inturned flange of the counter, that by reason of the glue it adheres to them as well as to the sole, and that the forward ends are thus fastened to the sole as well as to each other through the shank stiffener. This construction results in holding the wings of the counter very firmly and preventing them from spreading.

The second last 31 is now inserted in the shoe and preferably two short transverse slits, one of which is shown at 33, are made in the edge of the sole to facilitate the lasting of the heel portion of the upper. The heel seat flap is now lifted and the heel portion of the upper lasted over the counter and fastened by tacks 35, the shoe being then in the condition shown in Fig. 4. The heel seat flap 13 is then laid and fastened by nails 37 so located as not to interfere with the heel seat fitting operation which follows. This latter operation is carried out in the usual manner to provide a convex seat terminating forwardly in shoulders to provide a seat to fit into the cavity in a wooden heel. In the present case a Louis heel, indicated at 39 by dotted, lines, is attached and the heel breast flap l5 glued to the breast of the heel.

In case the shoe is to have a wooden heel other than a Louis heel, for example a Cuban heel, the manufacture of the shoe is carried out in the same manner except that no heel breast flap is provided. Referring to Fig. 6, the sole only of such a shoe is shown which is provided'with a counterreinforcing flap 21.1 and a heel-seat flap 2'13, the latter. being'shown after it has been fitted for the Cuban heel which is shown in dotted lines.

When a shoe having a leather heel is to be made the preparation of the sole is a little different. When soles are died out for use in the manufacture of shoes having leather heels, the heel end of the sole does not correspond to the insole pattern. In stead it is considerably larger to provide an extension which may later be trimmed and finished. In case a shoe having a leather heel is to be made according to the present invention, when the sole is'channeled, the lip cutting knife is thrown out at the proper time so as to make the usual lip, but the shouldenforming knife is caused to run entirely around the heel end of the sole, and the slit by which the counter-reinforcing flap 311 and the heel-seat flap 313 are made passes through the base of the shoulder. A sole so prepared is shown in Fig. 7, a leather-heel being shown in dotted lines. The manufacture of the shoe is the same as has been described above except in those particulars in which. the manufacture of :1 turned shoe having a leather heel always differs from that of a shoe having a wooden heel.

Although the invention has been set Having thus described my invention,

what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises sewing an upper to a sole having a flap formed at its heel end, the sewing extending forwardly of a line adjacent to the heelbreast line, attaching the inturned flange of a molded counter which is otherwise unattached to the shoe to the flap and completing the manufacture of the shoe.

2. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises sewing an upper to a sole having a flap formed at its heel end,

the sewing extending forwardly of a line adjacent to the heel breast llIlE, inscrtingwbcneath the flap the lnturned flange of a molded counter, fastening the flange to the flap but not to the sole and completing the manufacture of the shoe.

3. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises placing wrong side out upon a last an upper and a solehaving a flap formed on its heel end, attaching the upper to the sole forwardly of a line adjacent to the heel breast line, inserting beneath the flap the inturned margin of a molded counter, fastening the flange to the flap and completing the manufacture of the shoe.

4. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises placing wrong side out upon a last an assembled upper and lining and a sole having a flap formed on its heel end attaching the upper and liningto the sole forwardly of a line adjacent to the heel breast line, inserting beneath the flap the inturned margin of a molded counter, fastening the flange to the flap and completing the manufacture of the shoe.

The method of making a turned shoe which comprises placing wrong side out a upon a last an upper and a sole having a flap formed on its heel end, sewing the upper to the sole, inserting beneath the flap the inturned margin of a molded count-er, fastening the flange to the flap and complcting the manufacture of the shoe.

6. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises placing wrongs-ids out upon a last an upper and a sole having a slit in the heel end thereof, sewing the upper to the sole,inserting the inturned flange of a molded counter in the slit, fastening the flange to the sole and completing the manufacture of the shoe.

7. The method of making a turned shoe .which comprises placing wrong side out upon a last an assembled upper and lining and a sole havlng a slit in the heel end thereof, sewing the upper and lining to the sole, inserting the inturned flange of a molded counter in the slit, fastening the flange to the sole and completing the manu facture of the shoe.

8. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises sewing an upper to a sole having a flap at the heel end thereof, the

sewing taking place forwardly of a line adjacent to the heel breast line, inserting beneath the flap the inturned flange of a molded counter, fastening the counter to the flap but not to the sole and thereafter completing the manufacture of the shoe. k

9. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises sewing an upper to a. sole having a flap at the heel end thereof, the

sewing taking place forwardly of a line adjacent to the heel breast line, placing in position a molded counter, the forward ends of the inturned flange of which are slitted, with the rear portion of the flange underlying the flap and the forward. ends overlying the sole, fastening both therear portion of the flange and the forward ends to the sole, and completing the manufacture of the shoe. a a

10. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises placing wrong side out upon a last an upper and a sole having a flap at the heel end thereof, sewing the upper to the sole, placing in position a molded counter, the forward ends of the inturned flange of which are slittcd, with the rear portion of the flange underlying the flap and the forward ends overlying it, fastening the counter to the sole, and completing the manufacture of the shoe. 7

11. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises placing wrong side out.

upon a last an upper and a sole having a flap at the heel end thereof. sewing the up per to the sole, placing in position a molded I counter, the forward ends of the int'urned flange of which are slitted, with the rear portion of the flange underlying the flap and the forward ends overlying it, fastening the counter to the flap, turning the shoe right side out, inserting a shank stiffener,

fastening it to the sole and to the forward ends of the inturncd flange of the counter. and completingthe manufacture of the shoe.

12. The method-of making a turned shoe whichcomprises placing wrong side out upon a last an upper and a sole having a flap formed on its .heel end, sewing the upper to the sole. placing in position molded counter, the forward ends of the inturned which comprises sewing an upper to a sole having its heel end split to form a counterreinforcing flap and a heel seat flap, the

. sewing taking place forwardly of a line adjacent to the heel breast line, inserting beneath the reinforcing flap the inturned flange of a molded counter, fastening the flange to the flap by fastening means located in the vicinity of the heel breast line, lasting the heel portion of the upper over upon the bottom of the counter, laying the heel-seat flap and fastening it in place, and completing the manufacture of the shoe.

14. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises'sewing an upper to a sole having its heel end split to form a counterreinforcing flap and a heel seat flap, the sewing taking place forwardly of a line adjacent to the heel breast line, inserting beneath the reinforcing flap the inturned flange of amolded counter, fastening the flange to the flap by fastening means lo cated in the vicinity of the heel breast'line, lasting the heel portion of the upper over upon the bottom of the counter, laying the heel-seat flap and fastening it in place, fitting the heel-seat, and completing the man'- ufacture of the shoe.

15. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises sewing an upper to a sole having its heel end split to form a counter reinforcing flap and a heel-seat flap, the sewing taking place forwardly of a line adjacent to the heel breast line, placing in position a molded counter having transverse slits in its inturned flange near the forward ends thereof with the rear portion of the flange underlying the reinforcing flap and the forward ends overlying the sole, fastening both the underlying and overlying.

portions of the flap to the sole, lasting the heel portion of the upper over upon the bottom of the counter, laying the heel-seat flap and fastening it in place, and complet ing the manufacture of the shoe.

16. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises placing wrong side out upon a last an assembled upper and lining and a sole having a flap formed on its heel end, sewing the upper and lining to the sole, placing in position a molded counter, the forward ends of the inturned flange of which are slitted, with the rear portion of the flange underlying the flap and the forward'ends overlying it, fastening together the flap and the underlying portion of the flange, pulling the last, turning. the shoe right side out, putting the heel portion of the lining into place with its lower margin turned inwardly, inserting a-shank stifiener which is coated with adhesive and is thereby attached to theforward ends of the counter flange which overlie the sole, and completing the manufacture of the shoe.

1?. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises sewing an upper to a sole having its heel end split to form a counterreinforcing flap, a heel-seat flap and a heelbreast flap, the sewing taking place forwardly of a line adjacent to the heel breast line, fastening the inturned flange of a molded counter to the reinforcing flap, lifting up the heel-seat and heel-loreast flaps, and lasting the heel end of the upper, laying the heel-seat flap and fastening it to the reinforcing flap, fitting the heelseat and completing the shoe, including attaching the heel and laying the third flap on the heel breast thereof.

18. As an article of manufacture, a turned shoe having a slit in the heel end of its sole, a molded counter the inturned flange of which. lies in the slit, an upper the lower margin of the heel portion of which. is in contact with the under side of the inturned flange of thecounter, and a lining the lower margin of which is in contact with the sole at a locality above the inturned flange.

19. As an article of manufacture, a turned shoe having a flap formed at the heel end of its sole, a molded counter the inturned. flange of which is located beneath the flap and fastened thereto, an upper, the lower margin of the heel portion of which is lasted over and attached to the counter, and a lining the inturned lower marginof the heel portion of which rests upon the flap.

20. As an article of manufacture, a turned shoe having formed at the heel end of its sole a counter-reinforcing flap and a heelseat flap, a molded counter the inturned flange of which extends beneath the reinforcing flap, an upper the lower margin of the heel portion of which is lasted over the counter, a lining the-inturned lower margin of the heel portion of which rests upon the flap, and a heel, the upper face of which contacts with the heel-seat flap. 21. The method of making a molded counter turned shoe in such manner as to do away with the use of a separate counterreinforcing member which comprises providing a component member of the shoe with a counter-reinforcing flap, fastening the inturned flange of a molded counter to the flap and thereafter completing the manufacture of the shoe including laying the inturned lower margin of the lining upon the upper face of the flap.

22. The method of making a molded counter turned shoe in such manner as to do away with the use of a separate counterreinforcing member which comprises splitting a component member of the shoe to provide a counter-reinforcing portion, fastening the inturned flange of a molded counter to the portion, and thereafter completing the manufacture of the shoe, includ ing laying the inturned lower margin of the lining upon the upper face of the portion.

23. The method of making a molded counter turned shoe in such manner as to; do away with the use of a separate counterreinforcing member which comprises providing a counter-reinforcing flap on the heel end of a component member of the shoe, fastening the inturned flange of a molded counter to the flap before theshoe is turned right side out and thereafter turning the shoe and completing its manufacture including laying the inturned lower margin of the lining on the upper side of the flap to which the counter is attached.

24. As an article of manufacture a turned shoe having formed at the heel end of a component part thereof, a counter-reinforcing flap to take the place of the usual sepas rate counter-reinforcing member, a molded counter the inturned flange of which lies below and is fastened to the flap, and a lining the lower inturned margin of which lies upon the flap.

25. As an article of manufacture a turned shoe having a molded counter and a counterreinforcing flap having a contour correness of the heel end of a component member of the shoe, and having a contour coinciding with the contour ofthe heel end of said member. 26. As an article of manufacture a turned shoe the inturned flange of the molded counter of which is received between two flaps carried at the heel end of a component member of the shoe, the inturned lower margin of the heel portion of the lining of theshoe lying upon one of said flaps.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

HARRY L. YEATON. 

